The Sewing Begins!
OK, I know I promised there would be sewing in this installment, but first, we have to do some ironing...lots of it.
The collar needs to be folded into quarters, as do the ties. The collar is folded over three times with one raw edge remaining [四つ巻き折り - yottsu maki-ori] while the raw edges of the ties need to be folded into the middle like bias tape [四つ折り - yottsu-ori].
Next, we need to make a tuck in the おくみ [okumi - front panel]. (My dictionary has gusset for okumi but that sounds like it belongs on a pair of pantyhose.) We also need to press double fold hems [完全三つ折り - kanzen mittsu-ori] on the front edges of the front panels.
Now everything is pressed and ready to go!
Next up, is the 肩あげ [kata-age - shoulder tucks]. Sew the shoulders where marked approximately 2 cm from the folded edge.
See? Doesn't that look lovely. This is the left shoulder so the neck is on the left of the picture and the sleeve is on the right.
The next step is sewing tucks in the front panels and sewing the double fold hems. The tucks aren't really necessary but they are another way of mimicking the traditional narrow fabric. Below, you can see the front panels from the front and reverse of the fabric.
The best bit about this part was the loooooong seams. I was really able to put my sewing machine through its paces! Vroom!